Do It Yourself | DIY

How to Make a Blending Stump (DIY Drawing Tool)

Using a blending stump to blend a graphite drawing of a realistic eye

What is a Blending Stump? A blending stump is simply a tightly rolled piece of paper with a pointy tip, used to blend mediums such as graphite, charcoal or pastel.

Artists use it to:

  • Achieve smoother shading
  • Blend harsh pencil strokes
  • Soften transitions
  • And when it becomes saturated, they can use it to shade and blend all in one go. How cool is that!

comparision between store-bought versus homemade blending stumps

At the art store, these blending tools can feel expensive for what they are, so in this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to make your own blending stump at home using materials I bet you already have lying around your house! Homemade blending stumps work surprisingly well and can even be customized to your specific needs. I’ll show you how later on in the tutorial!

Materials to Make a DIY Blending Stump

To make a DIY blending stump, gather the following:

  • Different types of scrap paper
  • Scissors
  • Tape or glue
  • Medium-grit sandpaper (around 100 grit or finer) or something similar, like a nail filer or even a smooth brick from the exterior of your house. Yes, I’m serious.
  • Optional: box cutter or craft knife (Note to young artists: Please ask a guardian for help before using sharp tools)

Step 1: Choose the Right Paper for Your Blending Stump

showing the frayed edge of a paper used for making a blending stump

To create an effective blending tool, the softness of your paper matters. Try ripping it and looking at the edge. The more frayed it is, the softer the paper, and the better it will blend graphite.

I recommend using different types of paper to see which one works best.

Step 2: Cut a Rectangle of Paper

how to cut a piece of paper to make a blending stump

Start by cutting a rectangle of paper. The exact dimensions are not important. In case you want to follow what I did, my dimensions are roughly 13cm x 7cm. The size of your rectangle simply affects the length and thickness of your blending stump. Later in this tutorial, I will show you how to customize your rectangle size for length, thickness and comfortability.

Step 3: Trim One Corner

Trimming a rectangle to more easily roll paper for making a blending stump tool

We’re going to roll this rectangle up tightly, but it’s difficult to do so with such a long edge. To make it easier:

  1. Cut off the top corner of the rectangle (just on one side).
  2. Leave about 2 thumb-widths because we’ll be rolling with our thumbs.

If you’re able to roll the paper tightly without trimming the corner, that’s recommended!

Step 4: Curl the Paper

pre-curling paper to start rolling a blending stump
pre-curled paper for rolling a blending stump

Before rolling the paper stump, it helps to first pre-curl the paper using a pair of scissors. Place the paper between your index finger and a closed pair of scissors and gently pull the paper through several times, like how you would curl a ribbon.

Step 5: Roll the Paper Tightly

rolling a piece of paper to make a blending stump

Now roll the paper as tightly as you can, starting from the trimmed side. Use your thumb and index finger to roll the very edge back and forth until it becomes soft and can be rolled densely. Roll straight across, using both thumbs and index fingers. If you’re having difficulty with this step, it helps to wet your fingers slightly or even the paper itself, but be careful not to overdo it with the water, otherwise, your paper can start breaking down.

comparing how to and how not to roll a blending stump density

This step is extremely important. The tightness of the very first roll determines how sharp the tip of your blending stump will be. A sharp tip is needed for doing detailed work on your drawing, so try to make it as dense as possible.

You will notice that the trimmed end of your paper stump will appear hollow. This is normal!

Why a Pointed Tip Matters

comparing the tip firmness of two blending stumps made of different types of paper

A sharp, firm tip allows you to:

  • Blend tiny details with precision
  • Smooth out your shading in tight spaces
  • Have better control over what you’re blending/drawing

Sometimes you’ll find a paper that’s very soft and spreads graphite beautifully when using the side. However, that same softness can make the tip too weak for precision work. Blending stumps made from this type of paper are better suited for smoothing large areas, while detailed blending may end up looking blurry or muddy. In this case, it can help to keep two blending stumps in your toolkit: one for broad blending and another, made from a firmer paper, for detail work.

example of using a stiff blending stump to blend small details in an eye drawing

Step 6: Tape the End Closed

taping a blending stump closed

Once the paper is rolled up tightly all the way across, hold it firmly with one hand and tape it closed. Avoid taping too close to the ends. If you want a clean seal from end to end, you can use a little glue along the edge. Be prepared to hold it closed for a few short minutes before letting go, to make sure it doesn’t unravel.

Step 7: Sharpen and Sand Your Paper Blending Stump

First, make sure you are sharpening the correct end – the solid/dense end, not the hollow one (since we trimmed the paper earlier, one end of the stump will be hollow).

Here are two ways to sharpen your blending stump:

smoothing out a blending stump tip using sandpaper

For Young Artists:

  1. Try sharpening your stump using a pencil sharpener. If that fails, use sandpaper to sharpen your blending stump to a point, while holding it at an angle (This takes a few minutes, but is much safer than using a razor or knife).
  2. If you decide to use a sharp object, please ask a guardian for help :)

sharpening the end of a blending stump using a box cutter

For Adults:

  1. Use a box cutter or craft knife held at an angle to sharpen the solid end until it forms a point.
  2. It won’t look perfectly sharp yet, so refine it using sandpaper. This process also makes the paper slightly fuzzy, which helps it grab and spread graphite better. Avoid coarse sandpaper since it can tear up the paper and make the surface uneven.

Tip: If you don’t have sandpaper, you can try alternatives such as a nail filer (emery board), pumice stone, or even a clean and smooth brick. (Thanks to my Youtube viewers for suggesting alternative sharpening methods!).

Testing your Homemade DIY Blending Stump

testing a blending stump by blending graphite and drawing after it is saturated with graphite

When you’re done, test your stump by simply blending some scribbled graphite or charcoal using the side and the tip. A good blending stump should:

  • Spread graphite smoothly without any streaks
  • Be able to draw thin lines when the tip is saturated with graphite residue
  • Maintain a sharp tip for precision work

Experiment With Different Papers

Try making blending stumps using different paper types. It doesn’t strictly need to be art paper. You can use a paper bag or non-colored newspaper. Each paper will behave slightly differently.

For example, very soft paper may blend graphite extremely well, but as mentioned earlier, the tip may not be firm enough for precise work. In that case, the stump will be better suited for blending broad areas of a drawing, such as large areas of skin, rather than tiny details like the iris or tear duct.

Test multiple types of paper to find the right balance between softness and stiffness for your personal drawing needs.

Alternatives: As one of my YouTube viewers pointed out, paper lollipop sticks can also work as miniature blending stumps. Because they’re machine-rolled very tightly, their dense structure allows you to sharpen them to a fine tip that’s great for blending small details.

How to Customize Your Blending Stump

One great advantage to making your own blending stump, besides being free, is that you can customize the size and shape any way you want to fit your needs.

How to Make a Longer Blending Stump

how to make a long ergonomic blending stump

If you want a blending stump that is ergonomic and feels more like holding a pencil, cut a longer rectangle of paper. A long one will be easier and more comfortable to hold.

How to Make a Thicker Blending Stump

how to make a thick blending stump for blending large areas

For blending large areas more quickly, cut a wider rectangle. This gives you a chunkier stump that can cover more surface area with each swipe. This is great for blending things like the forehead, cheeks, clothing or large backgrounds. It’s also more comfortable to hold if you have large hands.

If you run out of paper while rolling, simply tape another piece of paper onto the end and continue rolling.

If you want a long and thick blending stump, increase both the length and width of your paper.

How to Clean a Dirty Blending Stump

Once you’ve worked on a few drawings, the stump may become fully saturated with graphite. To clean a blending stump, you can:

  • Sand it down similarly to how you did when creating it. This also sharpens it again.
  • Alternatively, you can use an eraser to erase the graphite off. This may not work too well for softer blending stumps where the graphite is lodged deep within the fibers. But it’s great if you’re in a rush.

Final Thoughts

Showing different types of homemade blending stumps in length and thickness

Making your own paper blending stump is not only fun, but also makes use of scrap paper that may have ended up being thrown away. It’s also a great way to test different blending textures to find one that suits your drawing style or to fit different drawing projects you may have. Try making a few and compare how they perform against each other. I hope this was a fun little DIY project for you! I know I had a lot of fun rolling and testing different papers to find the winner!

Click here to learn how to USE a blending stump!

If you have any questions or suggestions, please leave a comment below.

Thank you!

Darlene 😊

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How to Make DIY Models to Enhance Your Drawing Skills

Are you good at drawing facial features from the front or side but struggle with other angles? Today I’m going to share a quick and fun DIY method for making simple 3D models that you can move around to explore facial features from any angle. These are very rough models, just enough to help you think through placement and structure when reference photos aren’t available. You’ll still want to study real faces to draw them realistically, but this can make certain angles a lot easier to wrap your head around.

This eye model was made using a kneaded eraser.

If you don’t have any molding clay, Play-Doh or even a kneaded eraser, you can follow the recipe below to create something that feels similar to Play-Doh. If you already have molding clay, you can skip the recipe section and go straight to the section on how to form a 3D eye, nose, and head model.

Simple Non-Toxic PlayDoh Recipe

To make this non-toxic Play-Doh from scratch, you’ll need:

In a small bowl, mix the salt and flour well. Then add the dish soap in and mix again. You can add a few drops of food coloring if you like. Once the mixture starts clearing the sides of your bowl, feel free to get in there with your hands for a more thorough mix. I found this recipe just right for me, but since it’s likely we won’t be using the exact same ingredients, here are some troubleshooting tips for you:

  1. Mixture too dry? Add more dish soap
  2. Too wet? Add more flour
  3. Too crumbly? Use less salt

Our goal is to get a consistency that is easy to shape without falling apart, crumbling, or being overly sticky. Here’s a test! Can you create a pointy tip (like the end of a witch’s hat) without it falling apart? If it’s falling apart now, it will become worse as you play with it because exposure to air will dry it out further.

Notes: The salt acts as a preservative, so you can keep this Play-Doh in an airtight container for a few months without it getting moldy. Avoid using oil as a substitute for the dish soap because it can actually ruin your drawing if it comes in contact with your paper, even just briefly.

How to Form 3D Models of Facial Features

Making a 3D Eye Model

  1. Create the Eyeball: Roll a piece of Play-Doh into a ball and set it aside.
  2. Create the Eyelids: Roll another ball around the same size as the first one and flatten it down (don’t make it too thin or else it will be difficult to peel off your work surface. 3mm to 4mm worked nicely for me). Cut it in half using a straight edge such as a ruler or butterknife. These halves will be the top and bottom eyelids.
  3. Assemble the Eye: Place the two lids onto the ball, leaving a football-shaped opening to form the eye. Pinch the two lids together so they stay put.

Think of this model as a sketching aid. Rotate it, explore an angle, then translate that view directly into your drawing. It was very helpful for me when practicing the Loomis head drawings.

Making a Nose Model

  1. Create the Base: Form a wedge shape with a trapezoid at the bottom.
  2. Add Nostrils: Attach two round pieces on the sides for the nostrils. Press them in until they look more like half-spheres.

A blocky model like this trains your eye to think in 3D rather than copying outlines and makes proportion or orientation errors easier to spot and fix. Keep it next to your desk as a handy reference tool.

Making a Model Head

  1. Prepare the Base: Make a ball using your play-doh or better yet, a styrofoam ball and pierce it with a toothpick through the very center.
  2. Mark the Lines: Draw a vertical and horizontal line around the ball, ensuring they form a 90-degree angle and that the vertical line goes through the North and South Pole.

These lines help inform where facial features should go when the head is tilted at any angle. Find out more by exploring my tutorials on drawing the head.

You can also convert this into an eye model to help with positioning your pupil correctly (the vertical and horizontal line marks the position of the pupil).

how to make an eye model for drawing reference

Using Your Drawing Models

These models are simplified representations of facial features and the head. They can help you understand how features might look from challenging angles, especially when your reference image isn’t clear or available. Rotate the model to study foreshortening and observe how planes shift or disappear from view. This kind of practice helps build a mental library for drawing from imagination, but it doesn’t replace studying real faces.

Maintaining Your Play-Doh

If your Play-Doh starts to dry out, remove hardened or flaky bits and then knead it well. Store it in an airtight container or Ziploc bag to keep it usable for months. For a longer-lasting alternative that doubles as an eraser, check out my tutorial on how to make putty erasers from common household items.

Hope you had as much fun making these as I did!

Darlene

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How to Make a Kneaded Eraser | EASY

How to Make a Kneaded Eraser

This is my favorite type of eraser. It can be molded into any shape to erase even the tiniest detail in a drawing – you just need to dab and lift. No rubbing required.

Kneaded erasers are quite affordable, but since we’re all in Covid-19 lockdown right now, you may not even be able to buy one. So here’s how you can make it yourself, out of tools that you can probably find around your house.

How to Make a DIY Kneaded Eraser Putty At HomeYou can make a kneaded eraser out of pretty much any solid eraser that you have, even the one on the end of a pencil, just by rubbing it on a piece of paper to create crumbs and then kneading the crumbs together into a putty.

Make sure you knead the putty very well until it becomes one single piece that can be molded into different shapes.

But the results will be varied because some erasers just crumble instead of stick together no matter how hard you work it. But don’t worry, I will show you how to fix that!

 

I tested a total of 10 different erasers and they can all be turned into putty/kneaded erasers, some work better than others, though.

This white Paper Mate eraser (pictured below) was immediately usable after just a few seconds of kneading. It became a perfect eraser putty that held its shape well no matter how I molded it. If you also experience that with your eraser, you’re good to go! You can skip straight to the section titled “Extra Tips for Making a Kneaded Eraser”. If that’s not your experience, please continue reading…

How to Make a DIY Kneaded Eraser Putty At Home

 

How to Make Eraser Putty from a Super Crumbly Eraser

If your eraser is super crumbly no matter how much you knead the crumbs together, we can still make it work. We just need to add a few more steps to the process.

How to fix a crumbly eraser All you have to do is add something sticky to make the crumbs stay together. The best way to do this is to rub your eraser along the sticky side of masking tape, painter’s tape, or the sticky part of a sticky note.

Just rub your eraser along the sticky side until the sticky stuff or adhesive comes off and is incorporated into the eraser crumbs. This works well with tape that isn’t too sticky. Masking tape works perfectly. I wouldn’t use duct tape for this.

If the consistency is way too sticky for your liking, you can always add some dry eraser crumbs until the consistency is just right for you. A test that I like to do, is to see if I can easily roll the putty to a point and also flatten it down without it changing shape or crumbling.

Incorporating dry eraser crumbs into a sticky piece of putty

If you don’t have any tape, just go around the house looking for stickers that are easy to peel off like barcodes or labels that you don’t need. Some water bottles will have adhesive under the label!

I would not recommend using liquid school glue because once the glue dries, the eraser becomes totally solid and unusable. Glue sticks on the other hand will work okay, but it’s not as sticky as I’d like it to be.

 

If your crumbs DO stick together when you work them between your fingers, but the putty isn’t quite soft enough for your preference or it’s a little crumbly, you can either…

Method #1:

Use tape adhesive to make it softer.

Just rub your eraser along the adhesive a few times and then gather the softer putty and mix it with the hard or crumbly one.

Keep doing this until it’s soft enough for you. Here’s a comparison between a piece of putty before and after adding the adhesive. As you can see, it fixed our crumbly issue and it’s more pliable and more putty-like now.

 

Method #2:

The other solution is to try erasing a bunch of pencil scribble marks and then kneading your eraser to incorporate that graphite into it.

After a while, this will help the putty become softer, more pliable, and more effective at erasing.

It’s normal for the putty to become grey, as it takes on the color of the graphite particles. This is also how you can break in a brand new store-bought kneaded eraser.

 

Now, every eraser and adhesive will give you different results, so experiment with your own recipe to come up with something that works for you. Keep in mind that the more you erase with your newly made putty, the more effective and pliable it will become.

 

I prefer a fairly sticky eraser because it can easily pick up graphite with just the slightest touch, so I can work on very detailed areas of a drawing. Keep tweaking your eraser recipe and testing how well it can erase until you’re satisfied. Do keep in mind that some erasers work a lot better than others at picking up graphite. So I’d recommend trying this with a few different types of erasers.

 

What type of Solid Eraser Works Best?

I was able to convert ALL the erasers that I tested into actual working kneadable erasers.

Some worked perfectly right after I kneaded them, others required different amounts of adhesive added to them because they were either not soft enough, not sticky enough, or they were too crumbly to begin with.

Even extremely crumbly erasers like the Pink Pearl can be converted into a kneadable eraser.

The ones that I found worked best were these:

In putty form, they’re able to hold their shape when molded and pick up graphite easily using the dabbing technique.

 

Here are my RESULTS with each eraser that I tested:

Notes: I judge how good each eraser is by how well it erases (how many dabs it takes to erase something), how well it holds its shape when I mold it/when I use it to erase something. Erasers ranked as mediocre are still viable, they’re just less effective to work with (eg: it may require more effort to erase with)

1. Sakura Latex-Free, Non-PVC Eraser
Quick to knead. Doesn’t require adhesive. Makes a great kneaded eraser.

2. PaperMate PVC-Free Eraser
Quick to knead. Doesn’t need any adhesive. Makes a great kneaded eraser.

3. Tombow Mono Plastic Eraser
Quick to knead. Somewhat crumbly. Needs some adhesive or graphite to soften it up. Makes a great kneaded eraser. Will become stiff when it cools back down from the warmth of your fingers, so it requires kneading before use. You can use this to your advantage, though – using it as both a solid eraser and putty eraser. It can hold its shape extremely well for erasing the tiniest areas.

4. Pentel Hi-Polymer Eraser
Quick to knead. Somewhat crumbly putty. Needs some adhesive to fix crumbliness. Makes a good kneaded eraser.

5. Dixon HB Pencil from dollarstore, latex-free
Takes some effort to knead. Not crumbly, but feels drier than all the solid erasers listed above. Works better without adhesive, but it is quite stiff. Makes a good kneaded eraser after you mix it with some graphite.

6. Random white eraser from an old pencil case.
I probably haven’t used it in like 12 years (It was so stiff that it didn’t even feel like rubber. It still worked anyway. I was able to quickly form it into a putty without any adhesive. Makes a good kneaded eraser.

7 & 8. Paw Patrol Erasers from dollarstore
Quick to knead. Crumbly putty. Needs some adhesive. Makes a good kneaded eraser.

9. PaperMate Pink Pearl Latex/PVC-Free Eraser
Extremely crumbly. Needs a lot of adhesive to become putty. Makes a mediocre kneaded eraser because I need to dab many times to erase.

10. Studio HB Pencil from the dollar store
Extremely crumbly. Needs a lot of adhesive to become putty. Makes a mediocre kneaded eraser because it requires so much adhesive, that it becomes difficult to mold into certain shapes without sticking to my fingers. If you don’t need it to erase hairline marks, it will do a good job.

 

Extra Tips for Making a Kneaded Eraser

Tip #1:

As you erase more and more (incorporate more graphite into your putty), it will become softer and more effective at erasing. That’s a good way to soften a stiff piece of putty without having to add any adhesive. It’s also a good way to break in a brand new store-bought kneaded eraser. It’s normal for the putty to turn grey, as it takes on the color of the graphite particles.

 

Tip #2:

The more eraser crumbs you make, the bigger your eraser will be, of course, but it’ll take hours and a lot of hard work to turn a large eraser like this into a big pile of crumbs. A safe way you can speed up the process is by using a more textured surface to rub your eraser on. Here, I’m using the side of my textured mechanical pencil:

I’ve been asked many times if a cheese grater can be used. While you can use one, it can be very dangerous, so I don’t recommend that.

And that’s how you can make a kneaded eraser at home! Which by the way is my favorite type of eraser. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If ya did, please share it with your friends and leave a comment down below to let me know your results!

 

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